Flight to Bangkok – I’m writing this as we take an Air Asia flight to Bangkok, where we will connect to our next stop in Hua Hin. No worries…we do not go into the city of Bangkok at all, and in any case, the news over here reports that all is settled down in Bangkok at the moment.

Our day in Ninh Binh yesterday was stellar. Len says it was one of his best days yet.

We awoke to heat like our family has never seen. Even the Renaults, who spend much more time than us in hot weather, found the Vietnam heat overwhelming. It was the first time in my life that I dripped with sweat. There was no time to complain though. After a breakfast of banana pancakes and baguettes (yum!), we hopped on mopeds and tackled the busy streets – trying unsuccessfully to act as calm as the locals - before reaching the wide-open countryside. Lisa and I each had one child with us on our motorbikes while the guys had two kids each – one in front and one in back. Compared to the locals, who travel on mopeds with babies on their laps – this was tame.

We cruised through back lanes and along dirt roads that weaved through the mountain valleys and past miles and miles of rice fields. The rice paddies, which grow in a few feet of water held a lot of surprises: water buffulo sloshing around with just their heads above water, and women up to their necks tending the plants. From the road all you could see were their cone-shaped Vietnamese hats.

We had lunch in a village hotel. Again, it consisted mainly of chicken and rice. We realized that every day our main meal has been chicken and rice (with the new addition in Vietnam being spring rolls and pha ). The children are adamant that when they get home, all rice will be thrown in the garbage. The adults agree.

After lunch we visited a shop where women were embroidering linens and making silk clothing. We picked up a few souvenirs and treats – handsome red pyjamas for Levi, charming silk PJs for Lauren and Julia, a Vietnamese dress for Jo. After we made our purchase (a great amount for this shop I think), we were asked to sit and have a drink and chat with the young man who appeared to be the manager. He spoke decent English and we enjoyed an interesting conversation. Lauren has become very comfortable talking to the locals and she had many questions (and answers) for him. He seemed to envy the children’s height and told us that he is looking for a wife who is tall since he wants his children not to be short like him. I doubt he is looking for a wife quite as tall as me or Lis since we are giants in this place where the women are all the size of Lauren or smaller.

As we made our way back to the hotel around 5 pm, we crossed paths with hundreds of school children just getting out for the day. They were so beautiful on their bicycles, all wearing white school shirts and red scarves and waving and calling to us with great excitement.

There are many things that stand our about this country: the beauty, the poverty, the kindness, the garbage, the happy children, the bright spots of colours, the lush greenness, the beautiful girls, the animals everywhere – chickens, ducks, cows, water buffalo, leashed cats, and roaming dogs. With dog being one of the main dishes of Vietnam, the sight of dogs in every street, home, shop and field, was slightly disturbing. They were either older dogs, mostly pregnant or nursing, or puppies. Few looked healthy and all looked hot and dejected. 

At 6 pm, we all left Ninh Binh, in a mini-bus, bound for Hanoi airport. Our time with the Renaults was happily extended once again, as they changed their plans from taking a bus to Hoi An to taking a flight instead. For the three-hour journey (covering only 123 km), the children took advantage of their last hours together, creating a small riot of fun in the back seats of a mini-bus about half the size of the average North American van. I think the girls enjoyed having “brothers” for 2.5 weeks, and I’ll go out on a limb and say the boys will miss having three “sisters” too. 

And here we are today, on our own for the first time this trip. We miss our friends already but are looking forward to our weekend in Hua Hin, where we will hopefully meet some elephants, enjoy the beach, eat something other than chicken and rice, and do some last shopping.

‘Til Thailand…..

g